i had a ticket. i had my passport. and he had cold feet. i might have known fairy tales don't come true. s*n months out of my marriage, i had met the "great love of my life." we dated a year. i'd always longed to see europe, and, with my spanorce final, we planned the trip together. then two weeks before takeoff, he took off. having piggybacked two breakups, i felt as if i'd been through a double spanorce. here i was, thirty-nine years old, with two small children, and facing my ultimate fear: a life alone. was i ready to spend a month in europe by myself? i had a hard time going to a movie alone! but it did seem now or n*r. the kids would be with their dad, the money came as part of my property settlement, and i had a job waiting when i returned. okay, if i was going to be lonely for the next few years, i might as well start by being lonely in europe.
the highlight of my journey was to be paris, the city i'd always wanted to see. but now i was frightened to travel without a companion. i steeled myself and went anyway. i arrived at the train station in paris panicked and disoriented. i hadn't used my college french in twenty years. pulling my red suitcase on wobbly wheels behind me, i was shoved and pushed by perspiring1 travelers reeking2 of cigarette smoke, different diets and not nearly enough deodorant3. the roar of many languages bombarding me seemed unintelligible4, just babble5. on my first metro6 ride, i encountered an incompetent7, clumsy pickpocket8. i melted him with a look, and he eased his hand from my purse to fade into the crowded car. at my stop, i hauled my heavy suitcase up the steep stairs and froze. cars zoomed9 helter skelter, honking10 belligerently11. somewhere in this confusing city my hotel was hidden, but the directions i had scrawled12 suddenly weren't legible. i stopped two people. both greeted me with that parisian countenance13 that said: "yes, i speak english, but you'll have to struggle with your french if you want to talk to me." i walked up one street and across another. a wheel broke off my suitcase. when i finally found the hotel, my heart was pounding, i was sweating like a basketball player and my spirits drooped14. they flattened15 altogether when i saw my room. i couldn't stay. could i? the wall* looked like it had been through a fire. the bedsprings creaked. the bathroom was down the hall, and the window looked out onto the brick wall of another building. welcome to paris. i sincerely wanted to die. i missed my friend. i was entering my third week away from home and my kids, and i had arrived in the most romantic city in the world, alone. alone and lonely. alone, lonely and petrified16.
the most important thing i did in paris happened at that moment. i knew that if i didn't go out, right then, and find a place to have dinner, i would hide in this cu*cle17 my entire time in paris. my dream would be foregone, and i might n*r learn to enjoy the world as a single inspanidual. so i pulled myself together and went out. *ning in paris was light and balmy. when i reached the tuileries, i strolled along a winding18 path, listening to *rds sing, watching children float toy sailboats in a huge fountain. no one seemed to be in a hurry. paris was beautiful. and i was here alone but suddenly not lonely. my sense of accomplishment19 at overcoming my fear and vulnera*lity had left me feeling free, not abandoned. i wore out two pairs of shoes during my week's stay in paris. i did *rything there was to do, and it was the greatest week of my european vacation. i returned home a beli*r in the healing power of solitary20 travel. years later, i still urge spanorcing or widowed friends to take their solo flight in the form of travel plans. those who have gone have returned changed; *n by a four-day weekend in santa fe, an amtrak ride up the coast or an organized tour of civil war battlefields. traveling alone redeems21 itself by demanding self-reliance and building the kind of confidence that serves the single life well. certainly paris became my metaphor22 for addressing life's challenges on my own. now when i meet an obstacle i just say to myself, if 1 can go to paris, 1 can go anywhere.
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